By Bryan Ergle
In brief: A suit size is a starting point. Finding a comfortable fit can involve trying different cuts and discussing realistic alterations; made-to-measure or bespoke is an option, not a requirement for everyone.
A personal starting point
Bryan Ergle’s original account described being short and broad-shouldered, buying ready-to-wear suits and still feeling that the result did not suit him. His interest in the clothes worn in The Blacklist eventually led to a visit to Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn. These are recollections of his own journey, not a current endorsement from the programme or a recently tested shopping service.
Do not confuse a size with a guarantee
People with the same chest measurement can have different proportions. Different makers’ patterns may also fit differently. That does not mean ready-to-wear fits nobody. Try more than one cut, move in the garment and ask what can be changed without compromising its balance.
Know which service you are considering
Ready-to-wear begins with an existing garment; made-to-measure generally adjusts an existing block for an order. The Savile Row Bespoke Association describes its individual-pattern approach. Ask the actual provider to explain measurements, fittings and included alterations rather than relying on the word “custom.”
Prepare for a fitting
Bring the shirt and shoes you expect to wear, identify where a garment feels uncomfortable and explain how you will use it. Confirm the full cost and the delivery and alteration terms. A good result should suit your life and budget; it need not imitate a television character or follow another person’s route.
Sources and further reading
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